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European Festivals: from London Notting Hill to Pamplona, Spain

Farewell to the flesh

Every carnival has its own style: its pulse, drumbeats and vibrancy. Carnival is about festivity, the celebration of life and the true depth of the human spirit. From Rotterdam (Holland), to Chelmsford and Reading (England) and down to San Fermin in Spain, steelpans, drums and other instruments mix with the songs of dancing people in a unique art of the outdoor.

Originating from the Latin words carne and vale (flesh and farewell), ironically, carnivals are mostly about the beauty and spirit of physical flesh. Everyone from royalty to the not-so-exalted takes part.

In Europe, carnivals and festivals have a long history, retaining their colourful costumes, cuisine, music, mobility, bliss and the booze. Borrowing from the strong history, beauty and grace of old Africa, the London Notting Hill Carnival is traceable to Trinidad, where the processions originated around 1833. Since then, they have flourished in Europe.

In the third week of September 2004, for instance, Munich experienced the annual Oktoberfest. This is one of the biggest festivals in the world, a celebration of German food and beer. Attendees consumed over 5 million 'steins' in the popular Munich Beerhalls. Holland also hosted the 20th Rotterdam Carnival, an event similar to the Rio de Janeiro-type Notting Hill event. The second biggest, on Monday, 23rd August it drew thousands of people, all eager to express the Dutch spirit. Turkey hosted Anzac at Gallipoli. As every year, respect is paid to the memory of ancient ancestors.

These colourful and vibrant parties, sports, music and dances take place all around Europe - from Scotland (New Year's day in Edinburgh) to Liverpool (Grand National at Aintree Racecourse). There are fashion and ladies' hats at Royal Ascot in England, concerts, parades, dances and fireworks on St Patrick's Day in Dublin, Ireland. And, of course, the running of bulls in Pamplona, Spain.

Spain has a long tradition of bull-fighting. The Plaza de Toros (bull-ring) is always a huge attraction as toreros (matadors) engage one-to-two thousand-pound bulls with only muletas (red capes) and lances. At San Fermin, the booze really flows for the running of the bulls in early July. The animals are released from corrals to run for the bullrings where they are killed by the toreros. High from sangria and champagne, a few thrill-seekers run ahead of the animals. Each year, people are gored by the bulls, often seriously injured, sometimes fatally. In July 2004 recorded injuries totalled the same as 2003, slightly improved upon previous years. This year, fifteen have died, including an American youth.

In England, less dramatically, it was all fun in August at the Chelmsford Festival. For the first time, the festival was held in two venues (Chelmsford and Staffordshire) where musicians like Dido, Pink, Jamelia and Big Brother performed. Over 100,000 people attended. The following weekend, The Darkness, Green Day, Morrissey, 50 Cent, Ash, Lost Prophet and other musicians entertained at the Reading Festival.

By far the biggest carnival in England is held at London's Notting Hill Gate. It's the mother of all festivals. First introduced in 1964, almost a million people, including tourists, now watch the parade each year. And so it was over the two-day August 2004 bank holiday when the carnival celebrated its 40th year. With the theme of Freedom and Justice, the costumes, colour, calypso, and Caribbean spirit were as abundant as ever.

Festivals, carnivals, and similar events are all about the thrill. For us all, in Europe at least, they are about carne vale - 'farewell to the flesh', as we dwell on the true spirit of humankind.